uptown

The week that was...

2011-05-21T10:41:00.003+01:00

This week has been very special and truly inspiring.
I went to Malham and was fortunate enough to climb alongside the worlds best sportclimber Adam Ondra and the UKs best sportclimber Steve McClure. What other pastimes can afford that calibre of company in their respective theatres? I'll never share a Beauchief green with Tiger Woods, that's for sure.
Everyone was friendly. Everyone was encouraging and everyone enjoyed their climbing. Faces I knew like Sam and Lu, new friends in Jules and Andy. Toby crushed GBH, I got The Oak, my first confirmed 8b.
Climbing really is a great sport - remember that we're incredibly lucky in what we do and go forth with a smile like mine.

My winter training is beginning to pay off:

2010

2011-04-11T10:55:00.002+01:00

I guess 2010 was a pretty good year in reacquainting myself with the finer art of bolt-clipping. I really enjoyed the challenges and achieved several of my goals. I'm not sure whether to try the remainder of my dirty dozen list in 2011, or whether to set new targets. The velveteen rabbit was the "very hard project" that I listed so there are only 5 left to do now:

Statement of Youth 8a Lower Pen Trwyn
Soft option 8a Kilnsey
Zoolook 8a Malham
Revelations 8b Raven tor
Magnetic fields 8b Malham

I'm sure I'll do soft option at some stage when it's dry yet the others pose partner problems. If anyone needs a belay on any of these this year then let me know.

The velveteen rabbit.

2011-04-07T16:12:00.008+01:00

I've been heading to Trollers gill pretty regularly now since late 2009. Since my first visit I recognised its quality, potential and unique ambience. A secluded gorge reached by a pleasant walk under the magnificent backdrop of the Barden fell gritstone outcrops. The Rockfax guide talks of an isolated setting and spaced bolts and the YMC guide warns of dead rabbits and car thieves.
The isolated setting is one of its main appeals - you're likely to see plenty of ramblers yet other climbers are rare, a refreshing break from the throngs that Malham and Kilnsey attract. The bolts are now all new - a mixture of stainless through bolts and resins at comfortable spacings, thanks to the Yorkshire bolt fund. The flora and fauna isn't restricted to dead rabbits either, and we've never had a problem with car security from the Parcevall hall access.
One thing that is little advertised is Trollers' novel geology and geography. Large lumps of gritstone adorn the dry valley beneath the main face and one route in particular steps from a gritstone block directly onto the limestone wall. The hill behind the main crag has such a slight hydrological volume that the 'sponge' store has little water capacity and hence the rock can be dry for most of the year whilst other crags are seeping.

I worked quickly through the existing routes in 2009 and 2010, and enjoyed most of them but particular mention should be made to the following:
The Jim grin - Yorkshires best 7a.
The Barguest - Another fine 7a, now unfortunately missing its 'surprise'.
Haslam - A pumpy and fingery 7b/+.
Spent Youth - A short powerful and fun 7b/+.
Smouldering globules of lust - An awful name but great route at 7b+/c.

None of the routes there are too long and so they're well suited to a boulderers style - after my first scoping trip I enlisted the help of Nik to plug some obvious quality gaps, and as of this week we've almost finished the job, giving plenty for the previously unrepresented eighth grade climber to go at:
The tinderbox - A fingery and bouldery crux. ** 7c+
Moddey Dhoo - Link velveteen to Angel heart. ** 8a+
Wabbit and lamb - the counter diagonal from Angel heart to velveteen. ** 8a+
Angel heart - harder and better since the jug in the bulge 'fell off'. ** 7c+
Kick my habit - a direct up the cold turkey wall. ** 7b+/c

But pride of place has to go to The velveteen rabbit, arguably my best new route to date. It's taken plenty of work and produced many failures. A technical lower wall warms you up for a brutally powerful crux. I was originally trying this in a 'one inch punch' style by holding a half pad edge and a disappointing sloper and flicking into a flake instinctively, though the percentages were against me and I resorted to a butch full span from undercut to undercut for redpoint success. It took 6 goes on Monday, and finally went in the pouring rain, with run-off beginning to soak the finishing holds. This is redpoint number 5.

Two projects remain, one I bolted just right of The tinderbox that I should complete soon, and one that James Ibbertson bolted but has yet to get fully involved with. Hopefully the new routes will encourage folk to sample the delights of Trollers as a reliable alternative to the usual Yorkshire honeypots. If anyone needs a tour just let me know.

Yes we can.

2011-03-15T16:29:00.002Z

Missed me?
Winter's been a bit thin on the ground for climbing as the new arrival to the Uptown household has prevented such opportunity and indeed much sleep. I did meet Nik to start the sport-climbing season recently however, and despite a cold wind managed a couple of routes including a fun new one.
I've also had a few sessions up at the roof, and I've added plenty of new bits and bobs to what is now one of the better high grade bouldering spots in Yorkshire. Sunday was no different to usual - perfect conditions and a quiet crag, only Mark to share a bit of banter, beta and encouragement with. Two new 7c+ problems for me and a classic new 8b for him. I've almost got a feature film worth of footage now!
Hoping for a good year.

The flatlands.

2010-10-06T12:40:00.005+01:00

Recently I've been working in the Dutch flatlands on a mini-eden.

A colleague went for a run one night and randomly stumbled across a park. Running through this he randomly stumbled across a font escapee - the only free rock in the entire country.
I was made up, after-graft fun could be had away from the bar:

It seems that it's rained continuously since I went out to earn $$$, so much so that all the sport crags in Yorkshire are now wet.
I'm going to re-invent myself as a boulderer again. A trip to Nidderdale and a brief first glance at St. Bees reminded me how unstrong I am, but how much fun remains to be had. I did a reflection circuit and a new filler in at the roof (borderline, 6b/c) and some breezy seasalts on the coast - favourites being undercooke and swinger sds. If only it wasn't so far!

You not me.

2010-08-20T09:21:00.003+01:00

It's all about you, not me.
Yesterdays 'you' was Andy Farnell, legend of 'Psyche', beta provider extraordinaire and all round nice chap. He drove to Kilnsey from Liverpool to encourage me up Grooved arete, missing the chance for a shared drive out to the Peak with Holger and Dave. I owe him one. His belief rubbed off and success came quickly - early enough to contemplate a lunchtime walk to the Tennants and a pint of IPA. We managed to resist the Copper Dragon lure for a couple more routes and then retired to the beer garden to discuss our recent conquest.

Andy climbed Grooved arete on Sunday after a four year campaign. In that time he's given up and started climbing again and has had another child. His resolve and drive has been incredible, I can only guess at how many times he's climbed the 8a section up to the 'jug' at two-thirds height, only to fail on the hard red-point crux above. It's so nice to share in his final jubilation, and it's easy to see where his dogged determination came from, for Grooved arete is arguably a perfect British sport-route. It may be diminutive in stature compared to other Kilnsey classics, yet it climbs perfectly - a true PE test. A tough low technical crux is followed by flowing locks up the groove on just sufficient holds. If you land the 'jug' then composure needs to come quick, for you're just a couple of flicks from easier ground, the belay and success. 8b for climbers, 8a+ for trainers, you can decide, but the inevitable grade debate takes nothing away from the 30 or so pure movements necessary to CRUSH.
Just like Raindogs, this route should be on every trainee sport-climbers to-do list. I'm half way there now - 6 more toughies to go. It's amazing how much fun and friendship can be gained from scrawling 12 names on a piece of paper, and just going out climbing. Here's a poor video of Dan Walker (pre-8c beast) breezing up the groovy arete last year. Enjoy.

8b8b8b.

2010-08-07T11:40:00.005+01:00

Back in April I decided it was time to change discipline, I'd thrashed my way along some of my winter bouldering goals and needed to start getting fitter for the sport season. About three months in and I'm starting to flow. Back in April I was looking toward a goal of three 8b's this year. I ticked A smarter martyr by May, and have been 'looking' out for other possible 8b challenges since then. I think I've now found them. The dirty dozen names Revelations and Magnetic fields as targets, yet I've decided to keep the DD separate for this number-challenge. I therefore have a new mini-list of 3 8b's to conquer this season:

The Yorkshire ripper @ Kilnsey.
Love amongst the butterflies @ Cheedale cornice.
Austrian oak @ Malham.

Yesterday I opened another DD account at Kilnsey. It's arguably the most productive session I've had sport-climbing, and I have to thank Toby (Creamtime) for that. His beta set me up for flashed ascents of zero option, and soft-zero option. I think I'll try flashing the full soft option next, and I can't wait to get stuck into my project there, although I'm not relishing the potentially massive falls on offer, as it's too hard to clip any bolts once committed to the long and sustained crux of the route.

Wound up?

2010-08-05T11:21:00.004+01:00

Wind up?
Nah. I've unfinished business and the answer is simple really - I'm writing this blog for both me and you. I hope it can give some push, some drive to work toward, and achieve climbing goals. That's what climbing is predominantly about. Sure, the goals differ enormously according to person and their present situations - grade, location, friendships, history, quality, adventure... I could go on, yet it's obvious now to me why I'm enjoying my present middle-aged renaissance, why I'm enjoying this challenge, 18 years on from my first great climbing adventures...

I went on a blind date yesterday, to Raven tor in Millers dale - The behemouth of Peak District sport climbing. I was going to meet Ian at the cornice in Cheedale yet the rain had changed our outlook. He wanted to try Out of my boots and Toadside. I was happy to open an account with Revelations, a 15 minute familiarisation with an historical tick worthy within anyones logbook.
August 1992 also featured visits to the tor - I'll go through the old August diary entries from 1992 in a future post. Suffice to say it's not got any easier there since my earliest probings.

I've only got Statement, Soft option and Zoolook to open accounts on now, I'm still after a partner for Statement if anyone is keen to join me down by the sea this summer?

Wind up?

2010-08-02T16:31:00.004+01:00

I'm thinking of winding the blog up and reverting to my personal diaries.
I was never sure who I was aiming these posts at anyway, me or you?
July brought another tick from the dirty dozen - Raindogs at Malham.
Every man and his dog has climbed this infamous 8a, now I have too, and I'm really pleased I did. It's a milestone (albeit 20years late) and a style of climbing I don't excel at. This leaves 7 routes left to climb in 5 months. They are:

Statement of Youth 8a Lower Pen Trwyn
Soft option 8a Kilnsey
Zoolook 8a Malham
Grooved arete 8a+ Kilnsey
Revelations 8b Raven tor
Magnetic fields 8b Malham
A very hard project in Yorkshire

There you are then, cards are on the table.

Too old to be told.

2010-07-03T14:15:00.003+01:00

Yesterday Mark McGowan completed his goal of climbing 8a again in 180 days - the appropriately named Sufferance at Dumbarton. Congratulations to Mark, who I've never met, yet who gives fellow 'mature' climbers an incentive to set goals and work towards them.
The crags seem alive with the old skool this year, far out-weighing the next generation in my eyes. Maybe the new-youth prefer the walls, indoor training and the comps, or maybe my vision is skewed as well-weathered yet familiar faces from the 90's stand out more than the amorphousness of todays.

Seb Grieve on K3 (8a+) Cheedale. From High mountain sports, Nov 1994.

I drove out of Hathersage away from Outside and towards Wormhill and the route down to the Cornice. Ron was running along the road towards the town, bare-topped in the sun, with shorts looking a size too small. I hoped this would prove a good sign for my climbing today. I was meeting Jon at the crag, the second meeting this year and probably only the third in 5. We climbed together loads as old-youth, and those memories will always be precious, and fresh, since my climbing diaries won't let me forget those days dossing, hitching and climbing despite my age.
I'd climbed K3 with Jon on the Thursday, and had worked R'n'P too - todays goal for a redpoint. I walked past Adam and Nige on the Ogre across the river, and turned the corner to a busy Cornice. Seb was there, underneath K3, belaying Simon - 16 years on, the same route, and similar banter. I chatted with other old friends, long time no-see since my move to Leeds. Nik Kidd, Si Jones, Robin Barker. This is great, I'm going to have a good day I thought as I waited for Jon to arrive. The conditions were poor though. Martial music didn't feel easy as a warm-up and the crux sloper on R'n'P is oozing black. Nontheless by 4 o'clock I've ticked R'n'P, my 2nd 8a+, and both in a week. I'm contented in feeling I've moved up a level, and still have more to give.
I know it's only sport climbing, yet I'm doing some stunning climbs and I'm really enjoying the physical and mental challenges - These are routes I'd have gawped in awe at in the early 90's - maybe a long break was needed. 4 down 8 to go, with only 6 months remaining!

I joined a club.

2010-07-02T11:28:00.002+01:00

It's called UKB POWER CLUB, and it's a sub-forum on UKB where members can post goals, training shizzle, progress and the like. The trouble is I don't train, I just climb, yet for the first year ever I've set myself some lofty climbing goals, and I fear this microcosmic subculture may help motivate me towards them. Only 6 months of 2010 left, so I better start trying a bit harder...

mixing it up.

2010-06-10T11:48:00.006+01:00

A steep wall, a shunt and high humidity consolidate a fresh goal for Autumn. There are some benefits in struggling to find folk to climb with mid-week.

I've now done two climbs from the dirty dozen. Powerplant has always inspired me, and this year the Cornice in Cheedale is nicely dry quite early. Trouble is I can't find many sport-climbing partners, and keeness and motivation can ebb as quickly as it's awakened. Days of good weather and free time drift past, but at least the new lawn is now down. Fortunately Nik manages a full day pass, and a jaunt down the Dale bears fruit. A look at Dogs dinner buttress, over 10 years since a try on the traverse, and Steve McClure is floating through his extension section, a warm-down on Powerplant and he's off home, coming back for a 'proper go' on Saturday. It's the first time I've met Steve in over 25 years of scrabbling about. He's a nice fella to chat to and it's a joy to watch him climb, highly motivating. I've always really enjoyed climbing down here in the Dale, plenty of buttresses with a different character to each. From the carriageway climbing on the Cornice we head toward ripples and the sound of leaping trout at the Nook. I've been down here before, and I'll come here again. 1992 for Orange sunshine, 1993 for Unleashing the wild physique, 1997 for Entree (and a new labour government.) Over a decade on and miraculously I'm fitter as Powerplant goes 1st redpoint. I drop the crux of Unleashing thinking it'd be nice to have another look after 17 years, and immediately claw my boots off as I sink on the bolt. I need better boots for that, run-outs in '93, but my velcros aren't up to the task this time. Plenty remains - Nemesis, Roof warrior, K3, R'n'P, Kali Yuga to name just a few, but I'll need to infiltrate some good teams in order to succeed. Anyone out there?

So, to get good at sport you need to boulder too, right? Traversing last winter maintained some fitness, yet the fun comes in summer - A breezy Burbage South and a grinning Iain Farrar. Little gem, Electrical storm, More cheese Gromit and The rib, yet best of all good banter, in a short session en route to collect Archie from a trip to his Aunt's. Why We'd always walked past these blocs was easily explained by the Youngster as he showed me some of his new things - "we always looked for routes, even the short ones weren't boulder problems back then, until we got mats and patios". It was a different mindset. I'm enjoying the transition.

I'm off to France for a weeks Family holiday now, let's hope the 2010 progress continues on my return along with the lucky 'new 888'. Mrs UT has noted that it really does take two to efficiently do roped climbs, and she thought weekend passes might help if my whims are to be realised. Do let me know if anyone can help in this cause.

If you go down to the woods today.....

2010-05-28T10:43:00.003+01:00

Here are the first, second and third ascents of the eso-classic 'a little sparkle' at Guisecliff, North Yorkshire. It's like a 7a deliverance, though not as popular due to the location, which has always been part of the appeal to me. The moss has grown back over the starting footholds, and the heather fights its way over towards the juggy top, yet with a soft brush and a couple of pads you too can soak in an ambience that time forgot.
I treated the holds on 'BC' yesterday, this problem means a great deal to me and I'd like to see it remain. It too was mossed up, which is incredible seeing as I first climbed it just two years ago. That block is more than just climbing, it has an intimate sense of place to me, where thoughts and fears were confronted. Where, along with the Cliffs Jumping Bean and Brincador, dark clouds could disperse, yet precious memories remain. I'm going to try to get a video of it next time I'm there - I know you'll all love the campus finish, but will anyone other than the talented Mr Peckitt ever find it?

One down

2010-05-05T12:01:00.003+01:00

Massala martyr was originally bolted by Dave Sarkar, but first ascended by Nick Sellars in 1992. It incorporated the infamous 'English 7a' start to Mistaken identity, first climbed by Rob Gawthorpe in 1980! It's lost various holds on the top wall at the hands of Ian Vickers, Will Atkinson and myself, and despite easier sequences for the start,(although we can only guess at the original method) has now settled at 8b - a peg above the original 8a+. Stu Littlefair appears to have been the first person to ascend it in the new solid state, albeit with more than a little beta from Nik, after I'd ripped the 'dice' hold off it a few days previously. Ironically I'd found the new lefthand undercut sequence before seeing the dice method anyway, hidden in the cobwebs and dust - it'd been a neglected route since the original Vickers breakage, excepting repeats from Jordan and after our cleaning, Tanman.
Since originally trying Massala late last year I'd puzzled with the convoluted start, realising a direct solution could improve the line. This was to become a 'Joint enterprise' for Nik and myself as we cleaned, stabilised and added a bolt to what is a very fine font 7c/+ boulder problem.
We returned this year to try the direct solution as a route, and following the final metamorphosis of the headwall, I succeeded yesterday: A smarter martyr, French 8b.
Both Nik and myself put quite a bit of effort into this project (cleaning, drilling, glueing), and so I'm pleased someone else didn't 'accidentally' get the first ascent - I think credit should be where credit is due.
This all helps to show that the Peak doesn't have a monopoly on quality 'boulderers' routes. Come on Nik, breathe deeply!

The dirty dozen.

2010-04-22T11:18:00.002+01:00

This summer and autumn I am going to remain uninjured and fire through a highly motivating sport-climbing ticklist, nicknamed the dirty dozen. It's all 8's - some of the best, some of the most famous, some of the most infamous and with a few dirty hard projects thrown in for good measure. I hope Nik will be accompanying me through some of these experiences, although a couple might be too long for his 'compact' style. I'm predicting a year where sport climbing continues its push for acceptance within the bouldering community, and I hope the pack will at last gain some ground on Steve Mcclure, not just me...

The Stanton shuffle.

2010-04-19T10:42:00.005+01:00

I'd tried the Stanton shuffle on and off for many years, and had never really felt fit or strong enough until this year to link it. I think you need to be realistic with these things, and accept that specific conditioning is necessary, and the weather needs to be favourable. I'd like to link the traverse into the classic highball, but that'll need extra fitness, pads and a spotter, as the top will definitely present a fierce redpoint crux - I've always thought brutal arete should be 7b+ anywhichway you look at it.
Sport season now - repeat after me 8b8b8b...

Black jumper low

2010-04-16T17:57:00.006+01:00

Ironically I was chatting to Oli Wright at Caley the other night about how you can visit some places so often and yet still miss potential. It takes a different vision sometimes - Nik would agree with me on this, and I think this find proves that point, although It'll surprise me if a retro-claim doesn't pop up at some point.
Let me know your thoughts if you do bjl and keep a steady head at the top.

tralalalalaaaaahlalalala

2010-04-15T17:34:00.003+01:00

I did a session at the Cove yesterday, it's killed my arms but opened my eyes. Met up with Elmo and Sam and played on Connect 4/5 and Magnetic. Watching Dan on the Groove was very inspiring. I'm hoping that with an earlier start to the lime season this year I can get my fitness and strength up and get my projects done, and then get stuck into something hard seriously.
As Nik has reminded me, we can pull down hard still, and there's so much out there to enjoy before retiring. Challenges are constantly being set - the latest is 8A and 8a in the same month. He got the bloc in the spiritual (yet messy by the sounds of it) homeland of Font. I may struggle, yet I got my Peak traverse this morning as the winds hit N-N-E, and I reckon that's touching the fabled grade. Wish me luck on the bolts now, Nik is as keen as mustard.

The 'pinch' on my traverse:

'tis the season to be Caley.

2010-04-12T10:13:00.002+01:00

I've managed a couple of quick trips out to the Chevin over the last week or so and have rekindled my spark for the place. It can be a nasty scene there if you brave it at the wrong time of the year - green, slimy, cold, wet, head-height vegetation and bracken - a bit like Guisecliff really. Go at the right time of the season and it throws classic after classic at you until your fingers bleed. That time is now. I've tried to add a few things to my repertoire up there this year, and was chuffed to do JuJu club last night - a 7b+ which really doesn't suit my style, yet hides technique well in its brutish burl. I also did a 'new' sitstart to Black Jumper at about 7a+ to create a flowing highball challenge, with a fun set of moves. I'll try to pop a video up if I get chance this week.

sideways, downward, upward.

2010-03-31T12:01:00.003+01:00

As I've already blogged, February was good. I'd managed Marjah, Spin strategy and PEOC - as good a set of new problems as I'd ever done, and so I was keen to continue the momentum into March and work towards my 2010 goals (more about these in a future post.) I've promised myself that as I'm unlikely to travel abroad climbing this year, I'll aim to explore some hidden and popular classics in the U.K. - I started the travelogue with a trusty Nik as my tour-guide at Warton on the South Lakes limestone. Poison, a shuffle type 7c was in my sights as I'd seen various video treats to whet my appetite. It was good. Unfortunately Voodoo people (a classic 7b) had been in the warmup, and by pulling around a roof on smears and a one finger undercut my right arm decided upon mutiny. I missed the best two weeks weather in a while with my lay-up and decided to do as Ron or Jerry would with an injury - rehabilitate by soloing at Stanage. 37 routes from vd to E2 from the popular end towards the plantation. Marvellous. Days like this make you feel alive. My first solo was Happy Hips, which I first did in 1993 and much easier than the 6a given, and then I flowed through some old favourites and new challenges; Suzanne, Rugosity crack, Gullible's travels, Heather wall, Eliminator, Kirkus's corner, Narrow buttress, Easter rib, Morrison's redoubt, Heaven crack, Pedlar's rib, Curving buttress, Namenlos - all on a perfect sunny, sheltered and yet cool Stanage, the deep yet ageing snow drifts still present along much of the crag. However rewarding a day out like this is, one can only dream of the feeling Ron must have enjoyed at the end of his 100 extreme solos. Inspiring indeed.
Later in the month I decided to test the injury recovery with Nik on our project and at Malham, only to realise how route unfit I've become in the last 6 months. I also revisited a boulder project and despite my rotund and out of shape form, I've made great progress. These two projects have moves on them which are incredible in their execution; one requires a knee bar to be used on the back of your hand to keep it in place for a move, whilst on the other a toehook undercut is needed to force more pull through a really sloping hold to render it useable. It's not all Beastmakers, works, hangs and campus here you know.
I'm hoping for a better April, wish me an easterley.

PEOC

2010-02-24T10:06:00.007Z

There were some good conditions late yesterday. The easterley chilled and dried whilst the clouds kept the temperature down. The usual low fly past beckoned a good session and after Fat punters' and Rageh to warm up on I Growled my way along the East wing. Growled is such a pure sculpted line - rising waves of slopers, arranged in clusters like octaves in piano keys, to allow feet follow and feet first progression. Once your body becomes accustomed to its needs, the climbing flows and like in many such tests is rendered rhythmic, balanced in that initial success.

Sheltering and drinking coffee in the Spin Ghar cave I was thinking through a new challenge. A couple of forays into the lefthand Spin Ghar exit and my index finger split on the rugosity. I wasn't beaten though and with tape and some grunt PEOC was in the bag.

The 'Master Katz man' appeared with news of project success along the dale at Bat buttress. He showed me some footage of the new Vlad sitter on his phone - an explosive 8a+ where the positions look hard to adopt, yet alone to move between. He was also trying Growled yet skin and the fading light didn't help.

I split my middle finger on Whitefinger and so called it a day too. The appeal of this place is the hard-won nature of any success and its ambience.

Spin strategy

2010-02-15T12:53:00.005Z

I seem to be getting over the flu that has knocked me for six since Thursday. In retrospect I wasn't feeling too good on the Wednesday despite getting up the second tour. I'm going to call it 'Marjah buzkashi' - operation Moshtarak could have the potential to help the opium town regain its national sport, since being banned by the Taliban. I can see the BBC 'normalising news report' now.
I called in for a late afternoon look yesterday to see how much juice the flu had left me with, and I was pleased with the result: Spin strategy is a nice link from the cave of Spin Ghar through the Exit strategy traverse to finish up Peshmerga. Somewhere around the 7c/7c+ mark, but as with most of the problems here now, requiring consensus.

Blinded by the lights.

2010-02-11T10:21:00.006Z

My new pair of evolv shoes arrived on Tuesday. As I opened the box, I was only looking for the right foot. That was my third right boot for this campaign: Heels need to be good and tight. The afternoon was highly frustrating, great conditions (3degrees and a North-Easterley) with the annoyance of snow showers. Everytime the rock almost dryed it snowed again. I left having done little more than warm up as the low clouds blocked the last of the drying sun.

I returned even more determined on Wednesday yet suffered the same problem. I gave up amidst a particularly fierce hail storm, and drove back towards Leeds. As I got to the top of Pool bank the sun came out and I could see blue sky stretching past Harrogate. Sod it.

I turned around and waited out the few remaining flurries parked up overlooking Nidderdale, with views across Brimham, Whitehouses and beyond.
By mid afternoon with some of the usual tricks employed the blocs were in perfect condition. The sun was there to dry, yet the shower clouds protected its dominance and the rock was sheltered from the breeze at a cool 4 degrees.
Andi_e turned up - a lucky mascot after Dialectics, yet I fell 3 times due to cold fingers. It can be a real fine line and take some calculation to be warm yet cool.
The fourth attempt was well executed; The sun warmed the rock gently for a couple of minutes, and as another shading and cooling cloud of snow flurries began I breathed into the start. This time my breath took me through to the nose and I was eyeing the final sloping pinch. Toe hook and heel in opposition, cut-off and wedge that crack. When that finish feels easy I'll eat my white hat.
Andi ticked Rageh too so a great day all round, now we must move up a level. I'm not sure whether the footage would be of interest to anyone. Again I might throw it up for a limited time?

War is.....

2010-01-28T10:07:00.002Z

The birthday session was pro. Conditions were not great yet all the moves have now fallen. We're looking at a 7b+ into a 7b+, a poor chalking position, then the crux 7c/+. Another poor shake and chalk leads to another 7b+ section and then after yet another poor chalk and shake the 'sting in the tail' 7b. Numbers mean very little with a hog like this though - the proof will be in the roasting.....
I'm heading out again this arvo for some small link attempts - wish me luck!

zzzzzzzz.

2010-01-25T10:53:00.006Z

Last night was little different from usual. Archie woke at 11, 12, 2.30, 4.30 and then 5.30. By this time I'd had enough, so I tucked him up with me for the last hour before getting up at 6.30.
It's fascinating how the human body can still function in a zombie like state - I feel terrible and I'm sure I look and sound terrible too, yet life goes on and I'm already hoping the drizzle lifts for a birthday boulder this afternoon.
If and when I finally get a few good nights sleep, some fine weather and my pulled pinky mends itself, I'm hoping to make some real progress on this years goal. Actually it's just my spring goal - other aspirations call for the summer, and I hope this project will allow the fitness to truly test their defences.

As you get older fewer people seem to remember your birthday, but the presents get better as those that do remember are more thoughtful - A box set of copper dragon brewery Yorkshire ales, a trip on a steam train to the seaside to build sandcastles and a luxury dressing gown to make me feel better after another nights non-sleep.

I'll leave you with my latest offering of a point and press bouldering video. It includes some 2009 highlights, yet due to the sensitivity required at the venues, I'll be taking it down again later. In the meantime - enjoy, and get in touch if you have any belated presents for me (pillows, pyjamas, earplugs...) or if you're inspired enough to want to try any of the problems.