Massala martyr was originally bolted by Dave Sarkar, but first ascended by Nick Sellars in 1992. It incorporated the infamous 'English 7a' start to Mistaken identity, first climbed by Rob Gawthorpe in 1980! It's lost various holds on the top wall at the hands of Ian Vickers, Will Atkinson and myself, and despite easier sequences for the start,(although we can only guess at the original method) has now settled at 8b - a peg above the original 8a+. Stu Littlefair appears to have been the first person to ascend it in the new solid state, albeit with more than a little beta from Nik, after I'd ripped the 'dice' hold off it a few days previously. Ironically I'd found the new lefthand undercut sequence before seeing the dice method anyway, hidden in the cobwebs and dust - it'd been a neglected route since the original Vickers breakage, excepting repeats from Jordan and after our cleaning, Tanman.
Since originally trying Massala late last year I'd puzzled with the convoluted start, realising a direct solution could improve the line. This was to become a 'Joint enterprise' for Nik and myself as we cleaned, stabilised and added a bolt to what is a very fine font 7c/+ boulder problem.
We returned this year to try the direct solution as a route, and following the final metamorphosis of the headwall, I succeeded yesterday: A smarter martyr, French 8b.
Both Nik and myself put quite a bit of effort into this project (cleaning, drilling, glueing), and so I'm pleased someone else didn't 'accidentally' get the first ascent - I think credit should be where credit is due.
This all helps to show that the Peak doesn't have a monopoly on quality 'boulderers' routes. Come on Nik, breathe deeply!
2 comments:
Despite my enthusiasm for sport climbing overflowing, I must tip my flat Lancs cap to you for your commitment and determination. An excellent acheivement.
BeardyBeast, get your arse in gear.
Thanks G, the winter shuffles have proved useful for some early season fitness. More goodies to come I hope.
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