Thursday 10 June 2010

mixing it up.

A steep wall, a shunt and high humidity consolidate a fresh goal for Autumn. There are some benefits in struggling to find folk to climb with mid-week.

I've now done two climbs from the dirty dozen. Powerplant has always inspired me, and this year the Cornice in Cheedale is nicely dry quite early. Trouble is I can't find many sport-climbing partners, and keeness and motivation can ebb as quickly as it's awakened. Days of good weather and free time drift past, but at least the new lawn is now down. Fortunately Nik manages a full day pass, and a jaunt down the Dale bears fruit. A look at Dogs dinner buttress, over 10 years since a try on the traverse, and Steve McClure is floating through his extension section, a warm-down on Powerplant and he's off home, coming back for a 'proper go' on Saturday. It's the first time I've met Steve in over 25 years of scrabbling about. He's a nice fella to chat to and it's a joy to watch him climb, highly motivating. I've always really enjoyed climbing down here in the Dale, plenty of buttresses with a different character to each. From the carriageway climbing on the Cornice we head toward ripples and the sound of leaping trout at the Nook. I've been down here before, and I'll come here again. 1992 for Orange sunshine, 1993 for Unleashing the wild physique, 1997 for Entree (and a new labour government.) Over a decade on and miraculously I'm fitter as Powerplant goes 1st redpoint. I drop the crux of Unleashing thinking it'd be nice to have another look after 17 years, and immediately claw my boots off as I sink on the bolt. I need better boots for that, run-outs in '93, but my velcros aren't up to the task this time. Plenty remains - Nemesis, Roof warrior, K3, R'n'P, Kali Yuga to name just a few, but I'll need to infiltrate some good teams in order to succeed. Anyone out there?

So, to get good at sport you need to boulder too, right? Traversing last winter maintained some fitness, yet the fun comes in summer - A breezy Burbage South and a grinning Iain Farrar. Little gem, Electrical storm, More cheese Gromit and The rib, yet best of all good banter, in a short session en route to collect Archie from a trip to his Aunt's. Why We'd always walked past these blocs was easily explained by the Youngster as he showed me some of his new things - "we always looked for routes, even the short ones weren't boulder problems back then, until we got mats and patios". It was a different mindset. I'm enjoying the transition.

I'm off to France for a weeks Family holiday now, let's hope the 2010 progress continues on my return along with the lucky 'new 888'. Mrs UT has noted that it really does take two to efficiently do roped climbs, and she thought weekend passes might help if my whims are to be realised. Do let me know if anyone can help in this cause.

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