sideways, downward, upward.

As I've already blogged, February was good. I'd managed Marjah, Spin strategy and PEOC - as good a set of new problems as I'd ever done, and so I was keen to continue the momentum into March and work towards my 2010 goals (more about these in a future post.) I've promised myself that as I'm unlikely to travel abroad climbing this year, I'll aim to explore some hidden and popular classics in the U.K. - I started the travelogue with a trusty Nik as my tour-guide at Warton on the South Lakes limestone. Poison, a shuffle type 7c was in my sights as I'd seen various video treats to whet my appetite. It was good. Unfortunately Voodoo people (a classic 7b) had been in the warmup, and by pulling around a roof on smears and a one finger undercut my right arm decided upon mutiny. I missed the best two weeks weather in a while with my lay-up and decided to do as Ron or Jerry would with an injury - rehabilitate by soloing at Stanage. 37 routes from vd to E2 from the popular end towards the plantation. Marvellous. Days like this make you feel alive. My first solo was Happy Hips, which I first did in 1993 and much easier than the 6a given, and then I flowed through some old favourites and new challenges; Suzanne, Rugosity crack, Gullible's travels, Heather wall, Eliminator, Kirkus's corner, Narrow buttress, Easter rib, Morrison's redoubt, Heaven crack, Pedlar's rib, Curving buttress, Namenlos - all on a perfect sunny, sheltered and yet cool Stanage, the deep yet ageing snow drifts still present along much of the crag. However rewarding a day out like this is, one can only dream of the feeling Ron must have enjoyed at the end of his 100 extreme solos. Inspiring indeed.
Later in the month I decided to test the injury recovery with Nik on our project and at Malham, only to realise how route unfit I've become in the last 6 months. I also revisited a boulder project and despite my rotund and out of shape form, I've made great progress. These two projects have moves on them which are incredible in their execution; one requires a knee bar to be used on the back of your hand to keep it in place for a move, whilst on the other a toehook undercut is needed to force more pull through a really sloping hold to render it useable. It's not all Beastmakers, works, hangs and campus here you know.
I'm hoping for a better April, wish me an easterley.