Back in April I decided it was time to change discipline, I'd thrashed my way along some of my winter bouldering goals and needed to start getting fitter for the sport season. About three months in and I'm starting to flow. Back in April I was looking toward a goal of three 8b's this year. I ticked A smarter martyr by May, and have been 'looking' out for other possible 8b challenges since then. I think I've now found them. The dirty dozen names Revelations and Magnetic fields as targets, yet I've decided to keep the DD separate for this number-challenge. I therefore have a new mini-list of 3 8b's to conquer this season:
The Yorkshire ripper @ Kilnsey.
Love amongst the butterflies @ Cheedale cornice.
Austrian oak @ Malham.
Yesterday I opened another DD account at Kilnsey. It's arguably the most productive session I've had sport-climbing, and I have to thank Toby (Creamtime) for that. His beta set me up for flashed ascents of zero option, and soft-zero option. I think I'll try flashing the full soft option next, and I can't wait to get stuck into my project there, although I'm not relishing the potentially massive falls on offer, as it's too hard to clip any bolts once committed to the long and sustained crux of the route.
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