You not me.

It's all about you, not me.
Yesterdays 'you' was Andy Farnell, legend of 'Psyche', beta provider extraordinaire and all round nice chap. He drove to Kilnsey from Liverpool to encourage me up Grooved arete, missing the chance for a shared drive out to the Peak with Holger and Dave. I owe him one. His belief rubbed off and success came quickly - early enough to contemplate a lunchtime walk to the Tennants and a pint of IPA. We managed to resist the Copper Dragon lure for a couple more routes and then retired to the beer garden to discuss our recent conquest.

Andy climbed Grooved arete on Sunday after a four year campaign. In that time he's given up and started climbing again and has had another child. His resolve and drive has been incredible, I can only guess at how many times he's climbed the 8a section up to the 'jug' at two-thirds height, only to fail on the hard red-point crux above. It's so nice to share in his final jubilation, and it's easy to see where his dogged determination came from, for Grooved arete is arguably a perfect British sport-route. It may be diminutive in stature compared to other Kilnsey classics, yet it climbs perfectly - a true PE test. A tough low technical crux is followed by flowing locks up the groove on just sufficient holds. If you land the 'jug' then composure needs to come quick, for you're just a couple of flicks from easier ground, the belay and success. 8b for climbers, 8a+ for trainers, you can decide, but the inevitable grade debate takes nothing away from the 30 or so pure movements necessary to CRUSH.
Just like Raindogs, this route should be on every trainee sport-climbers to-do list. I'm half way there now - 6 more toughies to go. It's amazing how much fun and friendship can be gained from scrawling 12 names on a piece of paper, and just going out climbing. Here's a poor video of Dan Walker (pre-8c beast) breezing up the groovy arete last year. Enjoy.